A pattan (Paithani) is a gold and silk sari. In the revival of Paithani weaving, the production was oriented towards export requirements, while saris were produced only for sophisticated buyers. Paithani evolved from a cotton base to a silk base. Silk was used in weft designs and in the borders, whereas cotton was used in the body of the fabric. Present-day Paithani has no trace of cotton.
Paithani is a sari made of silk and zari. It is a plain weave, with weft figuring designs according to the principles of the tapestry. Traditionally, Paithanis had a colored, cotton muslin field that often contained considerable supplementary zari patterning.